Panino : Translated as “little loaf,” panino is known throughout Italy as a sandwich you pick up on the go. Now panini are here in Los Angeles to delight the palate and expand the sandwich repertoire

I’ll bet a hundred bucks that panino, the Italian word for sandwich, will soon slip off your tongue like honey.

Pretty soon, you’ll start noticing restaurant menus and sandwich shops featuring panini (plural) exclusively. You’ll find them at such places as the MOCA (Museum of Contemporary Art) cafe, Il Panino, in the new downtown museum complex, and at a spot in Beverly Hills called Giannino’s. You’ll see them on the menu at Il Piccolino and at Angeli Caffe, both in Los Angeles, and you’ll see them at picnics and party buffets.

An Italian might shrug if you ask the origin of panino. Said Celestino Drago, who operates Il Panino, “No one ever asks where or how they came about. They are just there.”

In Italy, panini are everywhere. They are fast food eaten on the run, to and from work, on the job, in train stations, in cars on the street. Sky-high piles of panini are packed in glass cases at almost every bakery and coffee shop for the hordes who want to grab a bite before or after work or a movie. Mothers pack them in schoolchildren’s lunch bags.

The ever-growing numbers of young, fast food lovers in Italy, called paninari, prefer the social scene at sandwich shops and McDonald’s golden arches to the family dinner table, where every family member should be, but no longer is, to the chagrin of traditionalists bemoaning the disintegration of the Italian family fiber.

In Milan, upscale paninotecas have emerged only in the last five years as havens for gourmet sandwich-eaters, who stand at tables to nibble on such fillings as duck or wild boar prosciutto while sipping fine wine.

In Los Angeles, the panino has just begun to find a place among those who enjoy Italian flavors and great bread. For it’s the bread that distinguishes every panino. The word derives from the word pane, meaning bread. There are dozens of different types of bread used for panini. Every region in Italy boasts a specialty. In Tuscany, you’ll find michetta, a roll with a hole in middle, a strong favorite, whereas in Milan the specialty is rosetta, a rosette-shaped roll, and in Genoa it is focaccia, a flatbread with baked-on flavorings such as pesto, garlic butter and onions.

The rolls may be elongated, round, square or flat. They may be seasoned or not. We give a few recipes for dough typically used in panini, but you can also use store-bought rolls and loaves found in fancy food shops as well as the neighborhood supermarket. Some Italian bakeries such as Il Fornaio in Beverly Hills and Santa Monica carry several popular panino varieties used by Il Panino, including michetta and ciabatta. Kaiser rolls, onion rolls and the like are ideally suited for panini. Square loaves such as pane in cassetta , ideal for grilling, can easily be substituted with firm-textured white or wheat bread.

In Italy, with the exception perhaps of those found at paninotecas in Milan, panino fillings tend to be traditional types--sausage, roast peppers, cheeses, tomatoes, vegetables, mortadella, salamis and other sausages. In Sicily, veal and chicken cutlets are slapped between two pieces of bread. Roast peppers are also a popular panino filling.

The panini appearing in Los Angeles, however, are something else. “They are not as fancy as those you’d find at the paninotecas in Milan, because we want to educate slowly, but they are interesting,” Drago said.

Actually, anything goes.

At the MOCA cafe, Il Panino, Drago has introduced eight sandwich fillings that are California variations on the traditional Italian theme. In a sandwich called Milano, sliced turkey is served with California goat cheese, avocado, sun-dried tomatoes, and arugula. A smoked salmon and mascarpone cheese filling is garnished with salmon roe, capers and chives.

Evan Kleiman, chef and co-owner of Angeli, a California-style Italian restaurant, fell in love with the sandwiches on her first visit to Italy at the age of 16 and does take-offs on traditional themes. “You open your mind to what is put in between two pieces of bread,” she said.

A sandwich Kleiman has called panino rustico contains chicken salad, dressed with Dijon mustard and arugula. This and other fillings such as roast pork are found in her book, “Cucina Fresca,” co-authored with Viana La Place (Harper & Row: 1985). The roast pork is seasoned with Dijon mustard and topped with pickled onions.

Dino Baglioni of Il Piccolino restaurant in Los Angeles serves several types of panini, including some using long, tapered rolls and round ones. They may be filled with red and green peppers and sausages; veal scaloppine with mozzarella cheese or ricotta cheese with prosciutto. There is also a sandwich made with smoked salmon, horseradish and capers.

At Giannino’s, the paninoteca in Beverly Hills, the sandwiches are simple and basic. Nothing fancy here. The sandwich called Godfather contains ham, mortadella, provolone and mixed peppers; the Capone has capocollo (sausage) and mixed peppers, and the tachinello contains smoked turkey and Swiss cheese.

Here are some of the recipes to start you off for the picnic season at the Bowl, the beach or park. They make wonderful sandwiches for lunch, light supper or to take to the office or club meeting.

PANINO BRUSCHETTA

1 cup water

1 cup milk

2 eggs

2 packages dry yeast

2 teaspoons sugar

Olive oil

5 to 6 cups flour

Salt

1 or 2 cloves garlic, crushed, optional

Combine water, milk, eggs, yeast, sugar and 2 tablespoons olive oil in large bowl. Mix well and add half of flour and 2 teaspoons salt or less. Knead in remaining flour until dough forms ball. Let stand 30 minutes to 1 hour until doubled.

Punch down dough, turn and let stand again 30 minutes to 1 hour. Shape into 3-inch circles. Place rolls on generously greased baking sheet. Rolls can be baked plain, or sprinkle with crushed garlic and drizzle lightly with olive oil. Or, combine garlic, 1/4 cup olive oil and salt to taste and brush over rolls. Bake at 400 degrees 12 to 15 minutes or until golden. Makes about 1 1/2 to 2 dozen.

FOCACCIA

8 cups flour, about

2 teaspoons black pepper

3 cups lukewarm water

Olive oil

1 1/2 ounces compressed yeast or 3/4 ounce dry yeast

Coarse salt, optional

Sift flour with pepper onto board or marble slab. Make well in center. Add water and 3 tablespoons olive oil. Sprinkle yeast over water. Let rest until dissolved, about 5 minutes.

Holding pastry scraper in one hand and using fingertips of other hand, gradually mix flour into yeast mixture to make paste. Work in remaining flour with pastry scraper. Press dough into ball. It should be soft. If sticky, add more flour.

Flour board. Knead dough until smooth and elastic, 5 to 7 minutes. Transfer to oiled bowl, turning ball of dough so top is also oiled. Cover with wet cloth. Leave in warm place until doubled, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Brush 2 baking sheets with olive oil.

Knead dough lightly to expel air. Shape into rounded 3-inch circles. Place on well-greased baking sheets. Brush with olive oil and sprinkle lightly with coarse salt. Bake at 350 degrees 15 to 20 minutes or until golden. Makes about 1 1/2 to 2 dozen rolls.

PANINO

1 1/4 cups warm water

1 package dry yeast

1 1/2 teaspoons salt

1 teaspoon butter or margarine

3 1/2 cups flour

2 tablespoons cold water

Measure warm water into large bowl, then sprinkle in yeast and stir until dissolved. Add salt and butter. Add flour and stir until well blended. Dough will be sticky. Place in greased bowl, turning to grease top. Cover and let rise in warm place until doubled, about 1 hour.

Turn out dough onto lightly floured board and divide into 12 portions. Shape each into long roll, tapering ends by rolling gently back and forth in hands. Place loaves on greased baking sheet. Cover and let rise until doubled. Bake at 450 degrees 15 to 20 minutes or until golden. Splash with cold water occasionally. Makes about 1 dozen rolls.

PIZZA ROLLS

1 cup water

1/4 cup shortening

1 1/2 tablespoons sugar

2 1/4 teaspoons salt

1/2 cup warm water

1 1/2 packages dry yeast

3/4 cup cornmeal

3 1/2 to 4 cups flour

Combine 1 cup water, shortening, sugar and salt in small saucepan. Heat just until shortening melts. Cool to warm.

Combine 1/2 cup warm water and yeast, stirring until yeast is dissolved. Stir into shortening mixture in mixing bowl. Beat in cornmeal, then enough flour to make soft dough. Turn out onto lightly floured surface, kneading until smooth and elastic. Place in greased bowl. Cover and let rise until doubled. Punch down.

Pinch off dough and shape into rounded 3-inch circles on well-greased baking dish. Cover and let rest 10 minutes. Bake at 350 degrees 20 minutes or until crust is lightly browned. Makes about 1 dozen rolls.

SANDWICH FILLINGS FROM THE MOCA CAFE IL PANINO:

PORTOFINO

Michetta or plain Kaiser rolls, cut in halves

Bufala mozzarella

Sliced tomato

Black Olive Dressing

Top bottom halves of rolls with overlapping slices of bufala mozzarella and tomato. Drizzle lightly with Black Olive Dressing and garnish with fresh basil leaves. Close sandwiches.

Black Olive Dressing

1 teaspoon black olive paste

1/4 teaspoon crushed dried oregano

1/8 teaspoon black pepper

1/8 teaspoon salt

1 tablespoon vinegar

1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil

Blend together olive paste, oregano, pepper, salt, vinegar and oil. Makes about 1/2 cup.

Note: Black olive paste is available at Italian groceries.

TAORMINA

1 endive leaf

1 cup diced smoked chicken

Dill Dressing

Michetta or Kaiser rolls, cut in halves

Diced tomato

Toasted pine nuts

Julienne endive leaf and add diced smoked chicken. Toss with Dill Dressing. Pile on bottom halves of rolls. Garnish with diced tomato and toasted pine nuts. Close sandwiches.

Dill Dressing

1 tablespoon Dijon mustard

2 tablespoons mayonnaise

1/4 cup olive oil

1/8 cup chopped dill leaves

Salt, pepper

Combine mustard, mayonnaise, olive oil, dill leaves and salt and pepper to taste. Recipe can be doubled.

MILANO

Panino Dressing

Ciabatta or onion rolls, cut in halves

Cooked or smoked turkey breast, sliced

Goat cheese, sliced

Avocado, sliced

Sun-dried tomatoes, julienned

Arugula

Brush Panino Dressing on bottom halves of rolls. Top with turkey breast, goat cheese, avocado, sun-dried tomatoes and arugula. Close sandwiches.

Panino Dressing

1 tablespoon tomato paste

5 tablespoons mayonnaise

1 tablespoon brandy

Dash hot pepper sauce

Blend together tomato paste, mayonnaise, brandy and hot pepper sauce.

CAPRI

Mascarpone cheese

Michetta or plain Kaiser rolls, cut in halves

Smoked salmon, sliced

Lemon Dressing

Salmon roe

Capers

Chopped chives

Spread mascarpone cheese on bottom halves of rolls. Top with slices of smoked salmon and drizzle lightly with Lemon Dressing. Garnish with salmon roe, capers and chopped chives. Close sandwiches.

Lemon Dressing

Juice of 1 lemon

1/2 cup oil

Salt, pepper

Combine lemon juice, oil and salt and pepper to taste.

SANDWICH FILLINGS FROM IL PICCOLINO:

SAUSAGE-ONION-PEPPER SANDWICH

Long rolls, cut lengthwise in halves

Mild or hot Italian sausage, cooked and sliced

Onion-Pepper Saute

Grill or toast cut sides of rolls. Arrange sausage slices on bottom halves of rolls and top with Onion-Pepper Saute. Close sandwiches.

Onion-Pepper Saute

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 onion, sliced

2 sweet red peppers cut into thin strips

1/4 cup sliced olives

Heat olive oil. Add onion and red peppers. Saute until peppers are tender. Add olives and heat through.

VEAL-MOZZARELLA SANDWICH

Butter

4 veal scaloppine

4 long rolls

8 thin slices dry mozzarella cheese

1 tomato

Lettuce leaves

Melt 2 tablespoons butter and add scaloppine. Cook until golden on both sides. Split long rolls and butter cut sides. Toast under broiler. Top each bottom half of rolls with veal scaloppine and 2 slices mozzarella cheese. Squeeze tomato pulp over cheese and place sandwiches under broiler until cheese melts. Top with lettuce and close sandwiches. Makes 4 servings.

RICOTTA-PROSCIUTTO SANDWICH

Oval-shaped rolls

Prosciutto slices

Ricotta cheese slices

Lettuce

Virgin olive oil

Split bread rolls and arrange sliced prosciutto and ricotta cheese over bottom halves. Top with lettuce. Drizzle with virgin olive oil. Close sandwiches.

SMOKED SALMON SANDWICH

Horseradish Dressing

Oval-shaped rolls, cut in halves lengthwise

Smoked salmon slices

Arugula

Virgin olive oil

Spread Horseradish Dressing on bottom halves of rolls. Top with slices of smoked salmon and arugula. Drizzle with virgin olive oil. Close sandwiches.

Horseradish Dressing

1/2 cup mayonnaise

2 tablespoons prepared horseradish

1 tablespoon capers

Combine mayonnaise, horseradish and capers and mix well.

SANDWICH FILLINGS FROM ANGELI CAFFE:

PANINO TONNO

Albacore chunks packed in olive oil

Pizza bread rolls, cut in halves lengthwise

Marinated Artichokes

Place albacore chunks on bottom halves of pizza bread rolls. Garnish with Marinated Artichokes. Close sandwiches.

Marinated Artichokes

12 baby artichokes, cooked and sliced

Juice of 2 lemons

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 clove minced garlic

1/2 cup olive oil

Place artichokes in bowl. Add lemon juice, basil, parsley, garlic, and olive oil. Toss to mix well. Marinate several hours or overnight.

PANINO ANGELI

Tomato slices

Bufala mozzarella slices

Pizza bread rolls, cut in halves lengthwise

Whole or chopped basil leaves

Olive oil

Overlap slices of tomato and bufala mozzarella cheese on bottom halves of pizza bread rolls. Garnish with whole or chopped basil leaves, if large. Drizzle with olive oil. Close sandwiches.

PANINO RUSTICO

Pizza bread rolls, cut in halves lengthwise

Dijon mustard

Chicken Salad

Arugula

Spread bottom halves of pizza bread rolls with Dijon mustard. Pile with Chicken Salad and garnish with arugula. Close sandwiches.

Chicken Salad

2 whole chicken breasts

Coarse salt, freshly ground pepper

1 large head escarole

2 cloves garlic, minced

1/2 cup olive oil

1/4 cup red wine vinegar

Season chicken breasts with salt and pepper to taste. Roast at 450 degrees 12 to 15 minutes or until juices are clear and meat is no longer pink near bone.

Remove skin and bones and shred chicken into bite-size strips. Tear escarole into bite-size pieces. Combine chicken and escarole. Add olive oil, vinegar and salt and pepper to taste. Toss to coat well. Makes 4 to 6 servings.

PANINO RICOTTA

Pizza bread rolls, cut in halves lengthwise

Olive oil

Ricotta Salad

Sweet red pepper slices, roasted

Greek olives, pitted

Drizzle bottom halves of pizza bread rolls with olive oil. Spread Ricotta Salad on each bottom half. Top with roasted red pepper slices and 2 or 3 pitted Greek olives. Close sandwiches.

Ricotta Salad

1 cup ricotta cheese

1 tablespoon chopped parsley

1 tablespoon chopped fresh basil leaves

Salt, pepper

1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil

1 tablespoon lemon juice

Combine cheese, parsley, basil and salt and pepper to taste. Add olive oil and lemon juice and blend well.

PANINO GROSSO

Pizza bread or Kaiser rolls, cut in halves lengthwise

Mortadella slices

Toscano salami slices

Cappocola slices

Provolone cheese slices

Extra-virgin olive oil

Layer bottom halves of rolls with slices of mortadella, salami, cappocola and provolone cheese. Drizzle with extra virgin olive oil and close sandwiches.

PANINO D’ARISTA

Pizza bread rolls, cut in halves lengthwise

Dijon mustard

Arista, shredded or sliced

Pickled onions

Spread bottom halves of pizza bread rolls with Dijon mustard. Pile with Arista. Top with pickled onions. Close sandwiches.

Arista

(Roast Pork With Fennel)

6 cloves garlic, minced

1 to 2 tablespoons fennel seeds

2 teaspoons coarse salt

Freshly ground pepper

1 (4-pound) boneless pork rib roast

Olive oil

Make paste with garlic, fennel, salt and pepper to taste in mortar and pestle, or mash. Unroll roast, if tied. Spread most of paste over meat, reserving 1 or 2 tablespoons.

Roll and re-tie roast. Make a few incisions about 1/2 inch deep on surface of roast and stuff with some of reserved garlic paste.

Rub any remaining paste over surface of roast. Rub with olive oil and roast at 350 degrees 2 hours or until internal temperature registers 170 degrees on meat thermometer. Baste roast occasionally with pan juices. Remove roast and allow to cool. Slice and shred as much meat as needed for sandwiches. Drizzle with olive oil. Makes 6 to 8 servings.