Earthen Wear : Jewelry Designers Look to Mother Nature for Inspiration in Creating Baubles, Bangles, Beads

From the heavens above to the oceans below, the freshest accessories of the season are inspired by all of nature.

There are celestial earrings adorned with heavenly stars. There are strands of multicolored glass beads that look as if they’ve been worn smooth by the surf. There are jewelry, belts and bags awash in starfish and seashells.

Natural materials, including wood, glass, metal and bone, are being worked by artisans into accessories that have an unpolished, primitive look.

These nature-inspired accessories go hand-in-hand with fashion trends, particularly the longer lines and soft fabrics of spring collections.

Jewelry is smaller and daintier to complement the season’s romantic dresses with their tiny floral prints. Necklaces come in longer lengths to follow the fluid lines of the clothes. Bold belts that draw the eye to the waist are balancing out wider-legged pants.

Chanel, a trend-setter in accessories, showed longer-length chain and pearl enamel necklaces to go with the long white linen dresses in its spring collection. Models wore long strands of multicolored cabachons dripping from their necks, wrists and waists.

“It’s sexy when you move--the chains move with the body,” says Anne Fahey, spokeswoman for Chanel in New York City.

Chanel belts were bold and gold; one featured fish skeletons that wrapped snugly around the waist.

Star, sun and moon motifs adorn earrings, necklaces, pendants and other celestial accessories, according to Dana Franklin, manager of the Icing in the Brea Mall.

“Anything to do with the solar system is hot,” she says.

The Icing has crystal star and moon earrings ($38) and a line of necklaces crafted out of metals shaped like planets and stars in different colored patinas ($18 to $38).

“The inspiration is taken from the sea, the Earth, the sky,” Franklin says.

Jewelry inspired by the sailor’s love of the sea is proving popular with all of the navy and white nautical fashions. The Icing has red, white and navy striped enamel earrings in all shapes ($28 to $34).

No matter how they interpret it, the Earth is a major source of inspiration for accessory designers.

“Everything’s real organic, whether it’s made of wood, bark or bone or it’s a metal charm shaped like a shell or star,” says Pam Lloyd, director of retail stores for Giorgio Beverly Hills.

Straw and natural fibers are being woven into soft and unstructured handbags and hats to top off linen looks.

Rows of actual seashells adorn pouches of crocheted straw by Carrie Forbes in black, white and natural ($96 to $178), at Giorgio in South Coast Plaza, Costa Mesa.

Beads made of natural materials are everywhere, whether it’s a single silver ball on a cord or multiple strands of pebbly glass. Anything that looks plastic is out.

“There’s a big resurgence in beads, beads and more beads--whether they’re glass beads, worry beads or tribal beads,” Lloyd says. “They come in everything from a short choker to a 72-inch chain.”

Designer Dayne Duvall created multiple strands of wire-wrapped glass beads that come in aquatic colors of the sea or an earthy amber color ($125 for a long strand), available at Giorgio.

“The look can be very dainty and fine, with tiny seed pearls, to big and bold beads,” Lloyd says.

With the return of ‘70s-influenced bell-bottom pants and platform shoes, spring has seen a revival of love beads and chokers. The chokers are made of silk or leather cords adorned and with crosses, peace signs, cameos and other amulets and can be worn with everything from jeans to business suits.

Chokers can be found in all prices. At Etcetera in Fashion Island Newport Beach, one can pick up chokers adorned with crystals, cameos and peace signs for about $7 to $12. Strands of multicolored glass beads are about $10, and a gold chain belt of big round hoops is $8.

“The belt is more ‘70s than Chanel,” says Bridget Chambers, assistant store manager of Etcetera.

Those with more upscale tastes might prefer Dayne Duvall’s small sterling wire-wrapped cross on a leather cord ($76 at Giorgio)--the perfect accent for a poet blouse.

In keeping with the back-to-nature trend, many favor accessories that bear a creator’s personal stamp over pieces that are mass-produced. Art-to-wear jewelry, once worn by avant-garde types, has gone mainstream.

“The museum statement has hit the masses,” Lloyd says.

Some museum pieces at Giorgio’s are silver free-form earrings and bracelets that look like miniature sculptures by Jordan Schlanger, including a cuff bracelet shaped like bull horns ($340) and earrings in soft abstract shapes ($126 to $170).

“The silver looks clean and fresh with linens and cottons,” Lloyd says.

Gold, too, is proving a popular accent to the season’s lighter fabrics.

The new St. John boutique in South Coast Plaza carries accessories that are bold and gold. The spring collection features a gold chain belt with seashell, starfish and seashell charms ($230), white enamel star earrings ($75), three-inch gold hoop earrings ($75) and a long strand of gold filigree beads ($125).

“Long strands worn in multiples is still key,” says Linda Koontz, director of accessories for Irvine-based St. John. “They go with the longer, softer shapes of spring.”

Necklaces are either very long or short. Gold link chokers have chevrons, curves and other textured patterns.

“They’re not just a plain chain around your neck,” Koontz says.