WHAT ARE YOU DRINKING?

“I have had a lot of bad Muscats in the last few years. In fact, it seems I haven’t had a good one in five or 10 years. But when I was in France recently, I had a 1996 Muscat de Rivesaltes by Henri Desboeufs. It’s a very old appellation, traditionally a fortified wine. This one was very fine and delicate. Most Muscats are very heavy, oxidized and bitter. This one was like a fresh flower.”