Wine of the Week

The small Condrieu appellation is home to Viognier, a grape that has become something of a cult among California winemakers in recent years. Marcel Guigal may be better known for his superb wines from nearby Cote-Rotie, but whatever this demanding Rhone winemaker touches turns to gold. This one is a benchmark Viognier--straw-yellow, soft but not a bit flabby, with a scent of violets and peaches and a nice minerally undertow. It would be wonderful with smoked salmon, crab or other seafood.

$27. Available at Manhattan Liquor in Manhattan Beach, (310) 374-3454; Wally’s, (310) 475-0606, and the Wine House, (310) 479-3731, in West Los Angeles; Hi-Time Wine Cellars in Costa Mesa, (949) 650-8463; Wine Exchange in Orange, (714) 974-1454; and Woodland Hills Wine Co. in Woodland Hills, (818) 222-1111. If you can’t find this wine, have your local shop call the importer, Ex Cellars Wine Agencies, (805) 686-9153.

--S. Irene Virbila