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Jonathan Gold reviews Dan Tana’s

A lot of the dishes at Dan Tana's are named after people. The late Hollywood producer Sidney Beckerman's moniker is attached to this assemblage of freshly made potato chips, tender onions and garlic, as well as to a version in which all of this accompanies baked dark-meat chicken.

A lot of the dishes at Dan Tana’s are named after people. The late Hollywood producer Sidney Beckerman’s moniker is attached to this assemblage of freshly made potato chips, tender onions and garlic, as well as to a version in which all of this accompanies baked dark-meat chicken.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Dan Tana's

Red-checked tablecloths and snug booths are integral to the atmosphere at Dan Tana’s in West Hollywood, a Santa Monica Boulevard institution since 1964.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Dan Tana's

The Caesar salad is a staple at Dan Tana’s: cold, juicy and slicked with a powerful emulsion of garlic and cheese. It’s tossed to order across the room.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

Jonathan Gold reviews Dan Tana's

The face of welcome at Dan Tana’s: Christian Kneedler, maitre d’.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

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Jonathan Gold reviews Dan Tana's

Dan Tana’s on Santa Monica Boulevard in West Hollywood. It’s just steps from the Troubadour.

  (Gary Coronado / Los Angeles Times)

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